Mar 26, 2007

'Pinot Paradise' found in our own backyard

By Adria Murray / Society Columnist

The Santa Cruz Mountains are loved by nature walkers, bike riders and those who enjoy the frequent cool breezes that flow around the mountain chain. But they are not alone, grapes are particularly fond of this appellation as well, growing strong in the pockets and alcoves of this ideal winegrowing region.

On Mar. 18, the Santa Cruz Mountains Winegrowers Association presented its third annual "Pinot Paradise" at Villa Ragusa in Campbell to promote "the birthplace of pinot noir in North America," located in our own backyard. Of the more than 70 wineries located in the mountains, 30 pinot-producing wineries came out to pour their prized pinot varietals for the 100-plus guests.

Some wine-tasting novices may know about the Judgment of Paris, the 1976 blind-tasting in France that resulted in two California wines (a Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay from Napa) being ranked as the best red and white wines in the world. But what many may not know is 30 years later the tasting was repeated, and in 2006 Ridge Vineyards of Cupertino (originally ranked fifth in the judgment) was named the best red wine of the retasting for its 30-year-old cabernet.

Granted, a cabernet is not a pinot, but wine aficionado and Winegrowers Association Executive Director John Hibble said that the judgment proved the high quality of the wines produced in the region as a whole.

"This is one of the best places in the world to grow pinot," Hibble said.

And Hibble has a hard time understanding people who sit down to a nice dinner out in the foothills of these mountains and order Napa Valley wines. Napa Valley wineries have regularly blended grapes from the Santa Cruz Mountains with their own to enhance a wine's complexity. Which says a lot about this special climate and these very special grapes. "So, give our local boys and girls a chance," he said.

Event chair and Burrell School Vineyards and Winery vintner and co-owner Dave Moulton walked the room to monitor the bids for the double magnum auction and said hello to fellow association winegrowers. Among the other local participating wineries were Byington Vineyards, Cinnabar Vineyards, Clos LaChance Winery, Generosa Winery, Mount Eden Vineyards, Muccigrosso Vineyards, Silver Mountain Vineyards and Testarossa Vineyards.

With spit cups and wine glasses in hand, guests made the rounds sampling pinots and savoring the delectable offerings from local restaurants. Cheeses, seared ahi tuna and breads galore were served by Nonno's Italian Cafe & Wine Bar, Viva and Dio Deka of Los Gatos, and Restaurant O in Campbell.

Nonno's Italian Cafe chef and owner Ralph DiTullio chipped away at his Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese wheel and made sure all passers-by stopped to try a sample. DiTullio's neighbor Joan-E Rizzuto was one such taster who stopped to say a brief hello, but stayed and joked about the time DiTullio's house almost went up in smoke.

The Santa Cruz Mountains are home to some of the world's best grapes and, unfortunately, California's inescapable brush fires. When Rizzuto called DiTullio last October to tell him she saw flames climbing the hill behind their block and thought his house was on fire, he said he couldn't come home at the moment to deal with it, he was expecting 30 guests for a wine dinner at his restaurant and was still preparing food. Rizzuto laughed, "Only an Italian would worry about feeding people before his burning house."

People with a passion for wine go hand in hand with those who have a passion for food. And a few of those people who ate, drank and were merry included Mount Eden Vineyards assistant winemaker Nova Perrill, Moulton's wife and Burrell School Vineyards co-owner Anne, Winegrowers Association Co-Executive Director Karen Hibble, Annie DiTullio and Restaurant O staff members Richard Rosen, Erol Nugent and Jennifer Payne.

In Moulton's "Pinot Paradise" program notes he says, "Remember, pinot packs more antioxidants than any other red wine." And that can mean only one thing, ... pinot does your body good.

Adria Murray's society column appears every Sunday in the Los Gatos News. Send event information to 324 High St., Palo Alto, CA 94301, or e-mail amurray@dailynews group.com or call 650-327-9090, ext. 328.